Of Barflies and Homebodies

It goes without saying that Après Ski in Austria's world of mountains often begins already on the slopes: The many ski huts and bars immediately adjoining the pistes are simply too enticing to pass up on the way down. And, as is often the case, the intended short swing into one of these establishments turns into an extended relaxing evening stay. Whereby it must be noted that cult drinks such as the legendary "Jaga Tea" have received company from a higher order of beverages: In Ischgl, for instance, in the "Champagne Hut" of the Hotel Romantica you can sip the fine pearly drink in charming rustic surroundings. In the Tirolean Serfaus at an altitude of 1,900 metres (over 6,300 ft.) you can exchange your bulky ski boots for cosy felt slippers to lounge on soft leather sofas across from a fireplace or, seated at a coveted table at a restaurant, enjoy a cup of exquisite tea or a glass of fine red wine.

The atmosphere in the rustic ski huts, where sociability plays a more important role than elegance, is somewhat less pretentious. Once beyond the tree line, according to long-standing mountain and hiking customs, everyone is on a first name basis regardless of stature, and the welcoming atmosphere of the hut eliminates formality. It is time to draw closer, especially as seating space shrinks, and strike up a conversation with your neighbour with whom you will definitely share a common sentiment: You are enjoying the happiness of just having spent a perfect day of your holiday on the slopes enhanced by the anticipation of a scrumptious meal.

Especially in the small huts meals are often prepared directly on an old rustic stove which imparts a uniquely intense taste to the food. Roast pork with a crispy rind straight from the wood-fired stove is an experience not to be forgotten. Nothing could be better designed to tantalize your taste buds than the aroma of home-cooked food slowly spreading through the hut. Many guests will savour such lavish marvels of domestic culinary art as Schlipfkrapfen or Kasnocken for the first time in their lives - and fondly remember them.

It's easy to wax eloquent when the topic of conversation turns to Austrian cuisine, especially since it enjoys an excellent international reputation and it is possible in many ski regions to proceed directly from the piste to a splendidly set table. An excellent example of such an eating establishment is the "Verwallstube" in Galzig, at an altitude of 2,185 meters (over 7,000 ft.) the highest gourmet restaurant in Austria. Even if the restaurant may be located in the middle of an Alpine world it is especially the fish specialties for which it is famous and that have earned it its two Gault Millau toques. No less spectacular is the view of the panorama through glass panes overlooking the mighty peaks of the surrounding Alpine splendour or the view gleaned from glancing about the room at such luminaries as the singer Hansi Hinterseer, the Formula One pilot Gerhard Berger or a chef of the century, Witzigmann, who often stop by.