Once Beethoven’s retreat, centuries-old Mayer am Pfarrplatz continues to lure a loyal following for its wine, traditional fare, and gemütlichkeit.
Implying cozy-warm-familiar, gemütlichkeit abounds at this historic heuriger (wine tavern) on the edge of the Vienna Woods. Formerly a health spa, this is where Beethoven came seeking rejuvenation in the summer of 1817—and wound up writing part of his Ninth Symphony. His quarters remain, unchanged, up a small flight of stairs from the tree-shaded summer terrace. Pull up a seat in his favorite spot under the linden trees and perhaps you’ll be equally inspired. Rest assured, if no sparks of genius fly, you can still hum along to traditional live folk music while savoring simple Viennese fare: hearty soups, roast pork, homemade sausage, strudel, and more.
Mayer am Pfarrplatz has been producing wine here since 1683 and, in the press house, you can see the original carved wooden press that started it all. Recent years have seen a revival of sorts with the making of an old Viennese specialty: gemischter satz. Dry, crisp and wonderfully aromatic, this white wine stems from an old vineyard planted with different varieties that are harvested and fermented together. If you’re lucky enough to be here during asparagus season, pair it with their famous asparagus cordon bleu. http://www.pfarrplatz.at/