"Styrian blood is not raspberry juice," is a popular saying in Styria. On the South Styrian Wine Road, you can see for yourself that it is indeed only the wine that counts here.
Contemporary viticultural architecture defines the landscape here alongside beautifully revitalized building culture. The way in which the vineyards, orchards, forests and fields have been cultivated for generations and the way in which established customs have been preserved is still visible. This has not changed until today.
Many compliments are paid to the South Styrian Wine Road: hospitable people, cultivated vineyards, fresh-fruity wines, excellent Buschenschänken or the "Klapotetz" (windmill) as a visible landmark are omnipresent and determine the rhythm of life - of locals as well as of visitors.
One can hardly get enough of this magnificent landscape with its steeply sloping vineyards and the narrow, winding roads.
The approximately 25 kilometer (16 mi) long road between Ehrenhausen and Leutschach leads through the largest wine-growing region in Styria. The fact that the wine road also runs along the state border of Slovenia for a few kilometers makes it even more unique.
"You can already see the seeds shining through!" - roaming through her vineyards with Tamara Kögl is an experience. You also get served an extra portion of passion. And that's even before the snack is served up in the "Moajörgl" - the 300-year-old, artfully restored parlor, where it's best to enjoy a glass of Sauvignon blanc from the winery's own vineyards.
It is particularly important to the winemaker that you can taste the identity of the region from the wine. "Every slope tastes different," she smiles.
Those who don't want to drive after enjoying the excellent wines can spend the night in one of four guest rooms or in the rustic barrel room right next to the vines.
Katharina Tinnacher literally grew into the winemaking profession: Her father, a winemaker like his father, gave her five vines as a child. She was supposed to tend them independently in order to realise what that meant. As a reward, she was allowed to exchange the grapes for chewing gum.
Today, of course, it's not about the chewing gum anymore: At the age of just 27, she took over her parents' estate and has been running it with great success ever since. In the meantime, she has switched to sustainable, organic production. From foliage work and the manual removal of damaged grapes to cellar work, where she is "only a companion, because the quality is made in the vineyard," as she says.
In 2013, Katharina Tinnacher converted her vineyards to organic farming: Only organic fertilisers such as pomace and green waste are used to preserve the vitality of the vines. Grasses and clover, marigolds. Yarrow and corn poppy provide habitat for valuable beneficial insects.
The estate 's single-vineyard wines are exclusive: only one bottle of Sauvignon blanc, Morillon, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gelber Muskateller or Roter Traminer is produced from each vine.
The modern architecture and tasteful interior of the main building and tasting room is worth a visit in itself.
In addition to sales, the winery offers tastings and guided tours on request.
The view over the hills of southern Styria is one of the most important childhood memories for Manfred Tement. "Look how wonderful we live here," his father used to tell him when they both looked across meadows and vineyards down into the valley. Here on the border to Slovenia, one is surrounded by deciduous forests, vines and silence. The perfect place to immerse yourself in nature. Winemaker Manfred Tement also knows this. He lets his guests spend their holidays in former cellars.
Where the wine workers once lived, now reside those seeking relaxation. Press houses, cellars and stable buildings have been transformed into chic chalets with quaint furniture, modern chandeliers and designer basins. Through the generous panoramic windows, the view of the vineyards reveals a brilliant play of colors, especially in autumn. "My favorite time of year," Manfred Tement enthuses as he looks out over the wildly romantic landscape.
"A piece of paradise," guests think, also because of the culinary catering: Sweet idleness in the apartments is made easier by a well-stocked refrigerator complete with vintner's snack. In the morning, a breakfast basket with regional delicacies is waiting at the door.
An Achte(r)l - 0.125 liters of wine in a glass - taken standing up is called a "Steh-Achte(r)l". When you actually want to go home but still can't tear yourself away: "Flucht-Achte(r)l".
The young wine in Styria is called Junker. Its trademark: the Styrian hat with the chamois beard. The star among Styrian wines is Sauvignon blanc. Be sure to taste it!
The Chardonnay is called Morillon. This variety is one of the most expensive wines in the world and provides the base wine for champagne production.
From a historic perspective and a culinary one, the province of Styria is well worth discovering. Just two hours south of Vienna you'll find rolling hills lined with vineyards, orchards and bright pumpkin patches. Sprinkled throughout is the perfect mix of medieval castles and manufacturers of local delicacies.
Culinary tips for lovers of fine wines, sparkling champagne, mindfully brewed beer, precious brandies and fine must.
Are you a wine lover, and have you always wanted to take a wine tour (Tour de Vin) through eastern Austria? Discover seven wine estates, from the hilly vineyards of Styria to the flat plains of Burgenland.
Made with love: get to know the people, their hometowns and their stories behind Austria's thriving culinary scene.
