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    • Obertilliach im Schnee
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    Obertilliach in East Tirol: far away from tourist hotspots

    The tranquil village of Obertilliach lies in a high valley in East Tirol. Here, centuries-old traditions are still lived out in harmony with nature. But the “Tilga”, as the locals here refer to themselves, are also open to new ideas. Just like Josef Lugger: he’s the third generation of his family to operate Gasthof Unterwöger, guiding the venerable inn into the modern age.

    Die Gastgeberfamilie Lugger
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    The three Josefs from Obertilliach

    “The family is the heart and backbone of our inn,” says Josef Lugger, one of the three Josefs at Gasthof Unterwöger. It is a tradition-rich history that unites the grandfather, father, and son.
    For the name “Josef” is part of this farm, just as completing an apprenticeship as a butcher is part of being its owner.
    “We are butchers, because it is important to us that we can serve food made from our own animals,” explains Josef, who is the second of the three and runs the farm along with his wife, Helena, and with the help of his in-laws.

     

    “Family Music”: harmony with the harp

    Gasthof Unterwöger is family-run with a passion: “The grandfather does the bookkeeping, my brother-in-law runs the kitchen, our wives serve the guests, and my son is currently doing his butcher apprenticeship and will follow in my footsteps,” explains Lugger.

    Together, the family makes sure that the guests at this 270-year-old inn feel completely at home. “I often sit down at their table with them to chat, as I have known many of them for years,” says Lugger. But it is not only hospitality that plays an important role for the Luggers, but also the cultivation of other East Tirolean traditions: When they have the time, the family gets together to make music. With dulcimer, harp, violin, and double bass, the group turns the cosy wood-panelled dining room into a stage once a week.

    Short route to high quality

    It is for good reason that the Luggers place their emphasis on their own farm products: “It’s simply important for us to know where the products that end up on our guests’ plates come from – and it’s best if we produce them ourselves, as we do our meat,” explains Lugger. Local breeds like the Tirol Grey cow and the Tirolean mountain sheep known as Tiroler Bergschaf roam his mountain pasture. “While these breeds do not have the highest yield, they are accustomed to the harsh weather up here in the mountains,” says the native-born Obertilliacher, who enjoys spending his time out in the mountains with his animals.
    While this is hard work both in summer and winter, “It’s worth it, because our guests quickly work up an appetite in the fresh mountain air, and then they’re very happy to get good, high-quality food from the region in their hotel,” says Lugger. Thus, the menu features predominantly traditional East Tirolean meals made with regional ingredients as well as the speciality of the house: roast lamb served in the pan with fresh herbs, potatoes, and green beans wrapped in bacon.

     

    Up high to calm down

    “In summer the mountains are a natural air conditioner, which makes the heat bearable,” Lugger tells us. “Here, you can hike or bike for hours at a time, and if you’re really brave, you can also jump into one of the cold mountain lakes.”And if guests catch a fish, they can even bring it to the Unterwöger kitchen and have it prepared.

    When the snow comes, the village of Obertilliach is transformed into a winter wonderland, and it is among Austria’s snowiest areas. It offers a total of 140 kilometres / 87 miles of cross-country ski trails, downhill slopes, and trails for snowshoe hiking tours. “Our Biathlon Centre brings athletes here from all over Europe,” Lugger reports proudly. “You could almost call us the ‘Mecca for Nordic sports’.”

    Die Außenansicht des Hotel Gasthof Unterwöger
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    Picturesque village with old traditions

    “Our village is really a place of interest in itself,” says the proud “Tilga” Lugger. “Many of our houses have stood here for centuries and are heritage-protected.” Strolling through the town, one admires the typical East Tirolean building style.
    The lower levels are usually stuccoed brick while the upper levels have wood facades. The majestic Lienz Dolomites and the Carnic Alps loom in the background, making the hometown of Josef Lugger seem almost small. “I have never been anywhere else, and I don’t need anything else, because we have so much beauty right here,” he says contentedly.

    A small glossary for navigating Austrian menus:

    How to get to Hotel Gasthof Unterwöger

    Hotel Gasthof Unterwöger

    Dorf 26

    9942 Obertilliach

    Österreich

    Telephone:
    +43 (0) 4847 5221

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