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    Walking in Vienna’s Schubertviertel

    If you have been to Vienna before, then you have likely walked somewhere through a Schubertgasse or a Schubertpark. While Mozart and Beethoven were adopted sons of Vienna, Franz Schubert was born here – and died here. A walk off the beaten path takes you through the Schubertviertel, a neighbourhood that carries the composer’s name.

    by Marsa Kindl-Omuse and Marietta Steinhart

    Plan a Day for this Walk

    • Schubertgarage, Vienna
    • Sobieskiplatz, Vienna
    • Restaurant The Highlander, Vienna
    • Schubert Church organ - Parish Lichtental, Vienna
    • Schubertpark in Vienna, original graves of Beethoven and Schubert
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    Vienna

    Stop 1: Schubert’s Birthplace

    Take tramline 37 or 38 from the central Schottentor station to the Canisiusgasse stop and start your day by visiting the Schubert Geburtshaus (Schubert’s birthplace), which is at Nußdorfer Straße 54 in the 9th district (Alsergrund). The entrance to the place takes you into a picturesque gravel courtyard enclosed by wooden balconies, throwing you back to late 18th-century Vienna.

    Schubert was born in the little kitchen of this house on January 31, 1797. Today it’s a museum dedicated to the composer and includes his piano, glasses, and many other historic memorabilia.

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     / Schubert Birthplace
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    "We think of Vienna as the city of music, but in fact none of its great composers were Viennese. Not Haydn, Beethoven, nor Brahms. Among the great canonic composers, Schubert is the only one, who is a real hometown boy. He has in his ear what I would call a “local sensibility.”

    Portraitfoto Botstein Leon
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    Leon Botstein
    • Stop 2: Schubert-Garage

      As you make your way to Sobieskiplatz for lunch, you will pass by another Schubert house in Säulengasse 3, only a few minutes away from his birthplace. His family moved here when he was a toddler.

      A plague reminds us that here he very likely began composing his 55 Goethe songs with “Gretchen am Spinnrade,” “The Heideröslein,” and “Erlkönig.” Remarkably, the only things tuned there now are cars, in the auto repair shop inside.

    • Stop 3: The heart of the Schubertviertel

      Säulengasse will lead you to Sobieskiplatz, the very heart of this Grätzl (Viennese for neighbourhood). This little square gets literally no attention in any travel guide. Yet between the two restaurants and the scenic cobblestones, there are few urban hideaways like it.

      There’s plenty of benches and a bubbling fountain, and when sitting and watching your surrounding go by, you can easily imagine how Schubert and his friends passed through two hundred years ago.

    • Stop 4: The Highlander

      Step into this pub at Sobieskiplatz 4 for a hearty lunch. Don’t be fooled by the name. It is not really a Scottish pub. Austrian delicacy such as Wiener Schnitzel and home-brewed beer are served here.

      Or if The Highlander is not your thing, on the opposite corner sits a little restaurant behind some leafy hedges, which is also a shop. At Weinschenke Walletschek you’ll feel like sitting at home with your friends with a glass of red wine.

    Franz Schubert's childhood church

    Stop 5: Schubertkirche

    After lunch, a short 5-minute walk takes you to the Lichtentaler Church with its baroque double tower facade at Marktgasse 40, also known as Schubertkirche. It’s the composer’s childhood church, where he was also baptised. He went on to sing in the choir, play the organ (which you can still see) and compose several works for the church.

    They offer concerts throughout the year and a Schubert Festival. Check out their social media for more info.

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    Schubert Church organ - Parish Lichtental, Vienna
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    A charming park and Schubert's original grave next to Beethoven

    Stop 6: Währinger Schubertpark

    For the last stop, leave the Schubertviertel and walk 15 minutes east into the 18th district called Währing, where Schubert's original grave lies. Usually, one gets a burial and a grave. Franz Schubert had three burials and two graves.

    He died on November 19th, 1828 and was buried in the same cemetery where Beethoven was laid to rest a year before, a mere two yards away. The cemetery closed in 1873 and would eventually become the Schubertpark. In 1888, Schubert was relocated to Vienna's Central Cemetery, where he again lies next to Beethoven, his greatest musical inspiration.

    Schubertpark in Vienna, original graves of Beethoven and Schubert
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