A visit to oil miller Georg Gilli

The idea of having his own oil mill was preceded by a significant crisis. As the son of a grain miller, Georg Gilli never really intended to take up this occupation, and even his father had advised him against it. At the time, Gilli was working as a project manager in the city of Amstetten. “Then my father asked me to come back after all. But what was I supposed to do in the Weinviertel?”

As chance would have it, at that very time an acquaintance approached him with the idea of producing sunflower oil together on a large scale. Georg Gilli was on the verge of accepting the offer when he had second thoughts: “I did all the calculations and realised that I would only lose money. On top of that, it wasn’t a good fit for me at all. That just wasn’t me.”

He fell into an “oil crisis”, as his father describes it. “I was completely frustrated for two weeks. I wanted to stay in the Weinviertel, but I needed a purpose and a job. Otherwise, I just couldn’t go through with it.” Georg Gilli abruptly grabbed his study materials from his student days and spent a day holed up in his family’s 460-year-old mill. 

There, he conducted a strategy workshop with himself and then, with a bit of trepidation, presented the results to two of the most important women in his life: his sister and his wife. Both of them were delighted with his idea. This marked the birth of “aÖ – Iss Dialekt.”

Today, Georg Gilli produces six different oils: the classic sunflower oil, pumpkin-seed oil and safflower oil, and then more unusual oils made from flaxseed, camelina, and hemp. “Camelina, for example, is a veritable flavour bomb: it tastes like green peas or asparagus, and in the finish has a rather nutty flavour. It used to be considered an undesirable weed in flax fields. But this organic oil lends zest especially to cold dishes like spreads and salads,” says the oil miller. 

Small shops in Lower Austria and Vienna that sell regional products from Austria now have his cold-pressed organic oils on their shelves as well. “Cold-pressed means that no heat can be introduced from the outside during the pressing process, allowing the oil’s natural properties to be retained,” explains Georg Gilli. The Eggenburg native is also a frequent presence with his oils at markets and culinary events, offering samples at his stall. 

As a one-man company, he is a buyer, producer, salesman, marketing manager, and general manager all in one: “While I might have short lines of communication, I still have a lot to do, of course,” he says with a laugh. “I could make a lot more money in less time in one single job, but that’s not my goal.” He still has a bit of the carefree surfer in his soul.

Georg Gilli now realises why he returned to Eggenburg: “When I come out of the mill, I am immediately with my girls; I can watch them play and am very close to my family.” He can’t imagine watching his daughters grow up in a big city like Vienna.

“Here in Eggenburg is where I spent my childhood, always outside doing things with my cousins. Even back then we played in the old mill, although it was not allowed,” he says with a grin. 

This is just what he wants for his three kids as well. “I want to lay a solid foundation now. Perhaps one of my daughters will take over the business someday. But who am I to dictate that to them?” Nonetheless, his eyes light up: “If the mill is still in the family in 460 years, then I have done everything right.”

Georg Gilli’s great-grandfather bought and renovated the mill over 90 years ago. It was used to make flour until 2004, when it was partially destroyed by fire. “After that it remained a family member,” recalls Gilli affectionately, “but it was no longer used.” Some ten years later, Georg Gilli turned the historic structure into a museum. He personally guides visitors through the Gilli Mill and tells them about the craft of grain processing and the history of the mill. 

Today, the old building contains the oil mill, which is considerably smaller than a flour mill. Georg Gilli bought it used and had the previous owner instruct him on the most important steps in the work process. But these basics were insufficient for producing the organic oil that Georg Gilli had in mind: “There is no place to train to become an oil miller, so I experimented a lot. I always knew that I wanted to produce something myself – from the region, for the region.”

Now, he works together with farmers his family has been partnering with for several generations. “It is quite impressive how many hands and work stages are required for one small bottle of oil,” he says. But Georg Gilli can only produce his oil in the quality that he demands if he obtains good seed. 

“A friend of mine once said: shit in, shit out,” he says with a laugh. “That’s about right, because I’m especially picky when it comes to selecting seed.” In the production of high-quality oils, however, it is not just about the contents but also about handicraft, patience, passion, sustainability, and regionality. 

Georg Gilli is particularly proud of the Demeter-quality Ötztal flax, an old variety that a farmer friend produces. “Flaxseed oil is my breakfast oil. It is always on the table. It goes with muesli, yoghurt, and smoothies. It tastes tangy and green.”

Even if Georg Gilli is the first oil miller in a flour-miller dynasty, the old handicraft, the region, and the work of generations are important for him in order to create something new.